Each Chef Must Learn Here’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.